Raven's Eye: Curacao, An Authentic Caribbean Island

by Andrea Poe, Special to Donne Tempo

Curacao isn’t your beginner’s Caribbean. While there’s much to love about this sun-drenched island, there’s not a cliché in sight.
Located about 40 miles from the coast of South America, Curacao is part of the Netherlands Antilles, one of the ABC islands (Aruba, Bonaire and Curacao). Unlike many Caribbean islands, tourism is not the first—or even second—industry. (The economy is driven by an oil refinery and deep ship repair). Because tourists are few, visitors can experience a rare glimpse into authentic Caribbean culture.

Willemstad, the capital city founded by the Dutch in 1634, is a pretty little scene of Holland drenched in sun-kissed pastel colors, perched along the turquoise Caribbean Sea. Wandering the winding streets, filled with shops and cafes that spill into alleys, you’re reminded of the Dutch influence. There’s even a glockenspiel coo-cooing from a wall in one of the plazas.
Kura Hulanda: A Village Unto Itself

The best launching pad for exploring this small (population 125,000) and unique island is from Kura Hulanda. To call this property a hotel is a disservice. This is an enclave tucked in the Otrobanda section of Willemstad.

In the late 1990s, this eight-block stretch of neighborhood had been given up for dead, the buildings populated by squatters and the streets trawled by prostitutes. The charming 17th, 18th and 19th century architecture was in ruins until Dutch entrepreneur Jacob Gelt Dekker restored the buildings to create what has become an integral part of the city, which is a UNESCO World Heritage site.

Eighty unique guestrooms are housed inside the historic homes. Several restaurants, as well as bar that stays open late into the night, bring a liveliness to the cobblestone streets. There are two pools, a casino, a newsstand and multiple outdoor sculpture gardens dedicated to artists from Curacao and Africa.

The Mansion that sits at the center of the complex is actually the founder’s home. When Dekker’s out of town, guests can use the mansion’s computers or relax in the elegant drawing room, stocked with books, snacks, sofas and a flat-screen TV. Especially enchanting are the hand-cut crystal chandeliers, part of the owner’s private antique collection.

Among all the unique touches to the property none creates a bigger impact than the museum. Museum Kura Hulanda is focused on slavery in the Caribbean. Dekker has scoured the globe for artifacts that range from instruments of torture to West African costumes. It’s a powerful experience when visitors are ushered down to the hold of a recreated slave ship to get a chilling sense of what it might have been like to be transported, crammed and shackled together, as human cargo.

Otrobanda is the cultural heartbeat of the city, where many residents live on narrow lanes, where kids learn to ride bikes in the plazas and where charming little bars and restaurants have cropped up. One of the highlights on this side of town is Rif Fort, a massive stone fortress built in 1829 by King Willem I to protect the Dutch military barracks.

The fort has been refashioned as one of the most lively and eclectic areas of the city with everything from high-end international shops (think Tiffany and Swarovski) to bustling local eateries. Among the best is a French/Swiss restaurant called Bistro le Clochard owned by a bon vivant Freddy Berends, who was a pioneer in the area, opening in 1978. In nice weather, ask to sit outside along the fortress’ edge overlooking the bay. This menu is replete with classics, like duck pate, fondues (cheese, beef and chocolate), and profiteroles.

Another worthy restaurant is Indi’s Spice. Owned by a family who emigrated from India, this small, inviting space is perched along the ramparts at the very top of the stone fortification. Climb the steep stone steps and you’ll be rewarded with homemade somosas served with a lusty lime chutney, a fiery lamb vindaoo and classic chicken curry.

The other side of the city, Punda, has government buildings, shopping plazas and open-air markets. Crossing the bay is an experience in its own right. Walk across the Swinging Old Lady (officially the Queen Emma Bridge), a pontoon bridge that swings open and motors out of the way as boats pass through the harbor. A honking alarm warns walkers they have a few seconds to run from one side or the other. Those that don’t make it in time must ride the bridge as it motors out of the way and back again.

One of the busiest parts of Punda is the Floating Market, where Venezuelans sell fish, fruit and vegetables from their boats and stalls shaded by colorful awnings. While tourists are welcome, English spoken and dollars accepted, this is very much a market for locals to find fresh food not grown on the arid island of Curacao.

Nearby, housed in a rotund mid-century modern building flecked with pock marks, is “The Dominican Market,” although vendors hail from many Columbia, Haiti, and Puerto Rico, as well as the DR. Locals flock to find unusual hair products (sheep placenta conditioner), herbal remedies (ginger root and rose petals doused in whiskey) and boxed Latin magic in a bottle (“Guapo & Forte” tonic).

Nearby the Snoga Synagogue, the oldest continuously operating synagogue in the Western hemisphere, welcomes visitors for tours. Established in 1692 by Sephardic Jews fleeing Europe during the Inquisition, it retains original architectural details like heavy brass chandeliers and the unusual sand floor that’s fueled speculation for generations.

When you’re ready for the beach, Kura Hulanda will shuttle you to its sister property 40 minutes away. The Lodge is tucked on a spectacular point on the west end of Curacao, an area known for its outstanding snorkeling and diving.

Perched on rocky cliffs over the Caribbean, the Lodge is a tropical resort that feels more like a friend’s secluded estate than a hotel property. Winding paths with verdant fronds are punctuated by bright bursts of magenta and fuchsia bougainvillea. Beautiful little yellow birds that locals call “sugar birds” flit about the property and large iguanas lumber about in the sun.

Rooms have private patios, making even the smallest among them feel like villas. For the most unusual experience at the Lodge—and perhaps anywhere you’ve ever stayed – book the Tree House Mansion. This treetop house, which spans several rooms, is actually founder Jacob Dekker’s vacation home. When he’s out of town, he permits guests to book this private oasis, outfitted with treasures he’s collected from India, China and Africa.

The Lodge also has its own restaurants, fitness center (under a palapas roof), a pool, a private beach tucked into a cove, and boats that run divers and snorkelers out towards dense reefs.

Despite all the things to do on Curacao, none is more satisfying than taking a quiet moment to stand on this point of land that jets out into the Caribbean Sea to soak in ocean vistas so vast that you see the curve of the earth and recognize just how far from home you really are.

An inveterate traveler, Andrea Poe writes frequently about travel for national and international publications. She writes two columns for the Communities at the Washington Times, contributing Raven’s Eye to Donne’s Travel World and The Red Thread, An Adoptive Family Forum.

The title of her column, Raven’s Eye, is a nod to her spirited and quirky relation Edgar Allan Poe, who knew a thing or two about discovering the unusual. You can email Andrea at andcpoeAgmail.com or follow her travel notes as andpoe on Twitter.